Hello all!
Last time I updated, it was with the process for making the underpinnings for an 18th century Italian Gown. Specifically the 1780s Italian Gown from the American Duchess book "18th Century Dressmaking."
This project was Very Fiddly but a lot of fun! There are a lot of things that I learned about fitting, and about pattern drafting, as I had to draft a paper pattern from the pattern in the book. This was a involved process. First, I scaled the pattern up using wrapping paper with the inch x inch grid on the back. This took a couple adjustments as I miscounted a couple times.
Then, once I had the pattern pieces all cut out, I made a mock up of a thin, cheap, cotton to check the fit.
It did not fit. At all. So, next came the second pattern draft, and mock up after mock up, and adjustment after adjustment of the pattern until finally it seemed to fit okay. My pattern has so many tiny scraps of wrapping paper taped in various places that it's basically an entirely new franken-pattern.
In the original pattern, the front panel wrapped around to the back and connected with two thin back panels. This did not work for my body whatsoever. I added another back panel to fit the pattern and make it work for my body. This led to some finicky fitting processes, and eventually I had to basically take half of that back panel away and add the lost fabric to the front panel so it would close.
During the construction, I initially made the bodice with the intent that A) it would be sleeveless and B) worn over stays, so my first attempt at the bodice fit great! But I tried to make it close with hooks and eyes, and they were Very Wonky and the front panel was slightly off kilter. So I undid the bodice from the skirt and tried again with the new pattern.
I also struggled with the difference between a historical closure (pinning it closed over stays) and a modern closure (buttons). The historical closure would mean that the pattern would stay mostly the same, and I wouldn't have to make adjustments for fit. Eventually I decided that because my stays were not a great option for a day to day choice for me, I would add some darts under the bust and at the armscye to make it fit properly, and would add button panels.
The final product is beautiful, but 18th century gowns were designed to be worn over stays and to pull back your shoulders. I had to make some finagling adjustments to the lining so I could use my arms without the threat of ripping the gown. I also gained some weight during the sewing process, and had to add a wedge of fabric at the center back so that it wouldn't strain so much. I look forward to losing the weight again and being able to take it back out.
I think my favorite part of this project was the back panels. I love the look of the thin panels seamed to make it fit to the natural curves of my body, although because I didn't bone the back, it wrinkles at the waist pretty severely. Something to think about next time, although the back of historical patterns weren't boned.
This was my most significantly challenging and ambitious project to date, and I definitely learned a LOT. I got very frustrated while adjusting the fit of the mock ups and the pattern, and had to put the project in time out for a couple weeks, but I'm glad I came back to it.
Overall, I'm Very Happy with the way this dress fits, and how it looks on me. I foresee wearing it frequently, although it does strain at the shoulders still. If I decide to make a second one, I'll definitely see if I can fix that.
Looking forward, I am trying to decide if my next project will be Take 2 on the Italian Gown, or if I will move on to a Henrician outfit. We shall see!
Til next time.
Comments
Post a Comment