Hello again!
Since the last time I posted, I have made several other, non sewing related projects for Christmas gifts and birthday gifts, including mostly knitted items, but I did come back to sewing for another stab at the 1790's Italian Gown from American Duchess's book "18th Century Dressmaking." Of course, like a dummy, I did not think to grab any photos, but I'll detail the process in the dress diary below.
Since I knew that I'd so heavily modified my original pattern for this gown to fit a more modern, stays-lacking silhouette, I decided to re-draft from the book on wrapping paper. This time, it only took me 3 or 4 mockups, because I remembered from the last time that the back panels' width needed to be pretty much doubled. From there, it was more tweaking the fit. I did have to add some width and length to the front panels, as well, to accommodate my bosom. Overall, the drafting process was far less painful and fussy than last time, and I was able to move onto cutting out the fashion fabric.
For this pattern, I used a cotton print that vaguely resembles historical prints, although it is definitely not a match for the patterns of the time. It was on super sale at JoAnn's, and for a first (ahem...second) attempt at the gown's style, I figured it would do. I am not able to spend too much on fabric at the moment, so I can't afford to super nice reproduction fabrics. Perhaps I'll ask for some for Christmas!
For the lining, I used a thick, cream cotton that I had in my stash. I used up basically all of it, there's about a half to 3/4ths of a yard left, so I'll have to purchase more lining fabric. I used semi-matching brown mutlipurpose thread, so it's definitely not HA, but needs must.
I machine sewed the pieces of the fashion fabric and the lining together separately, and used a small running stitch to attach the top edge of the lining and fashion fabric, conveniently forgetting that I shouldn't attach the fashion fabric shoulder strap yet. Then, also ignoring what the American Duchess book says to do, I attached the sleeves before adding the skirt. I hand sewed the sleeves in using a back stitch, and closed the fashion fabric around the edge, leaving both a clean inside and outside, and tried on the bodice for fit. At this point, the arms were a bit snug, but the back fit just fine.
I moved on to the skirt. I had 5 1/2 yards left of the skirt fabric, and initially tried to pleat it all down into the waistband, but it was too thin to cartridge pleat, and there was just too much of it to pleat down effectively. I removed about a yard and a half, and then tried again. I used knife pleats facing in towards the center back, so that when it goes over the split rump I have yet to make, the back point will rest on my tailbone in the way that the gown was designed to.
I then hand whip stitched both the lining and the fashion fabric onto the skirt without the stitches showing on the other side, using matching thread for both fabrics, trapping the skirt edge between the two layers. At this point, it was looking very neat and clean on the inside, without the usual hard edge that adds some fluff to the skirt. I like to have really clean interiors, and tried to make sure that all seams were trapped between the fashion and lining layers, including the sleeves.
At this point, I tried it on again, and realized that to close it effectively, I would need to have some boning at the center front, or the fabric would gap between pins. I sewed two tiny channels, just wide enough for 4 mm heavy duty zip tie each, and sewed them up. This made it much easier to pin the front panels closed, with no hooks and eyes required! The gown fits pretty much like a glove, but I realized that the sleeves were just a touch too snug, and not long enough in the upper arm, so when I moved my arms around, it pulled at the fabric and restricted my movement. Time to redo the sleeves.
I got my seam ripper, and took out the sleeves, adding both width and height to my paper pattern. I cut new pieces from my remaining fashion fabric and lining, and hand sewed them in. They fit much better, although now there is some gapping at the top of the shoulder that I'm not sure how to fix. The shoulder strap itself might be a bit too long, so I'll have to go back and shorten it and then finish the top of the shoulder again.
Next up is all of the period extras: ruffles. I will make a long strip of narrow box pleated ruffle of the same fabric as the gown to attach at the neckline and cuffs, and a neckline ruffle and several sleeve ruffles out of very lightweight white linen. Perhaps I will also add some lace. We shall see. These will be sewn in, although I know that in period they might have had detachable ones to reuse on other gowns.
I've also bought pomatum and powder, so that I can begin forays into 18th century beauty! My hair is probably not long enough to do the real styles, so I may also have to purchase extensions. I have the American Duchess "18th Century Beauty" book on its way to me, and will be able to practice some 18th century styles in the meantime.
In other news, I have essentially gotten off of Social Media, so there will be a lot more posts about the projects that I'm working on that are not sewing related to appease the inner validation seeker. Who knows who will actually read my posts, but at least I can shout into the void.
I'll post another update on the gown and ensemble once I've come a little closer to finishing it. So long, for now!
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